how to fix a broken gas cap door

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Broken Fuel Filler Door Lock Actuator

Thread author dbbalch
Start date Mar 10, 2019

: 28

: 26

: 3

: Maryland

Genesis Model Type: 2G Genesis Sedan (2015-2016)

On a recent trip back from my son's school, I came very close to becoming stranded without fuel. The pin in my fuel door lock actuator had broken leaving me unable to open the fuel door. The electronic & manual release mechanisms still functioned, but with a broken pin, the door remained locked. Luckily, I had just enough gas to get home where I researched the problem and figured out the repair.

An obvious option would have been to take it to the dealer and let them figure it out. It may have been covered by the warranty. But then again, it may not have. The repair, though tedious, wasn't particularly difficult or expensive (about $75 for parts), so I chose to do it myself.

Figuring out the problem and the repair was a pain in the ass. I'm detailing it here for any current or future victims that may want to fix it on their own (or simplify their trip to the dealership).

The repair involves two parts: the lock actuator (required - it was busted) and the fuel filler housing (optional).

Part 1: Remove the actuator bolts.

To begin the repair, I had to first get the fuel door open. I used a rubber wedge to open a space, then used a screwdriver to pry the door open. It broke the tip of the acuator pin off, but I didn't care - it was already broken anyway. If you have a 90-degree pick tool, you can manually press the actuator pin in, releasing the door.

To get the broken actuator out, you need to get to the two 10mm bolts that hold the actuator in place. Unfortunately, they're hidden behind the fuel filler housing. You can use a razor blade to create openings in the housing rubber over the bolt heads and simply seal up the cuts with electrical tape when you're done. See the picture of the finished job to see where to do this. If this is what you would like to do, skip forward to part 2. If you want to replace the housing, as I did, read on...

To remove the housing, start by removing the four small plastic pins that hold the inner ring of the housing around the fuel tube. I used a pair of needle-nose pliers to simply pull them out. They got mangled a bit, but I was able to reuse them without issue. Next, you will need to get a small flat-bladed screwdriver through the four points on the edge of the housing to release the four clamps that hold the housing in place. The four little dimples on the housing mark the spots you need to poke through (see pictures). I used a drill with a small bit right on the rubber dimples to create the holes for the screwdriver. Use your screwdriver to release the four brackets and then wiggle the entire fuel door & housing out.

FYI the fuel filler door snaps into the housing, but you need to remove the housing to get it out.

Once the housing is out, you can remove the two actuator bolts and unplug the wiring harness from the back of the actuator.

Part 2: Replace the actuator.

To replace the actuator, you'll need to partially remove the drivers side trunk liner to get access to the manual release wire, which is held in place by a bothersome little clamp. Do this by lifting out the floor liner panel that covers the spare tire, removing the plastic cover over the trunk latch (2 10mm bolts and two plastic grommets), then the remaining 10mm bolt and two screws that hold the floor of the driver side liner panel in place. From there, you can peel the liner out enough to expose the area you need access to. I used a bungee cord to hold it out of the way.

There is a bracket straddling the stuff you'll need to get to, but it's easy to undo the two 10mm nuts and rotate it out of the way.

Now you can remove the old actuator and its manual release wire. In my car, the manual release wire was held in place by a bothersome little plastic clamp that also encased the existing actuator harness wire. I wanted to keep the existing actuator harness wire, so I ripped the little clamp out, tore it open and threw it out. The new actuator has its own release wire and clamp already attached, so no need to save the old one. I didn't bother trying to figure out how to re-clamp the existing harness wire.

Part 3: Reassemble

Once the new actuator is attached to the existing harness and you've snapped the manual release wire clamp in place, you can go ahead and bolt the actuator into place and test it. I sprayed some silicon lube into the actuator pin to make sure it functioned a smoothly as possible.

From there, it's just a matter of reassembling the trunk liner. If you chose to replace the housing, snap the fuel door into it, snap the housing into place and stick the four small plastic pins back into the collar.

Again, researching and figuring out the problem and repair was a pain in the ass. I hope this post makes the job easier for future victims.

Actuator part for 2015 Genesis Sedan: Amazon.com: Dorman 759-491 Fuel Filler Door Lock Actuator: Automotive

Housing: NEW Fuel Gas Filler Door Pocket Plastic Housing OEM For 2015-2016 Genesis | eBay

Attachments

Last edited: Mar 10, 2019

: 2,248

: 1,094

: 113

: Atlanta, Georgia

Genesis Model Type: 2G Genesis Sedan (2015-2016)

Thanks for the information. I am sure that many people will need this information over time as the Genesis ages. Hell, the fact that Dorman actually took the time to makes a replacement fuel door actuator for the Genesis tells me that this is a common fail item for our car as time goes on.

The same part may actually be used in other car makes and has failed in them as well.

Thank you for this. Fantastic post.

: 248

: 146

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Genesis Model Type: 2G Genesis Sedan (2015-2016)

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Thread author
#5

: 28

: 26

: 3

: Maryland

Genesis Model Type: 2G Genesis Sedan (2015-2016)

Thanks for posting the repair. Another great tip to file away.
Were you aware of this?.. 2015 Hyundai GENESIS Fuel Filler Door Lock Actuator. LOCK ACTUATOR. Opener assy - 81590B1000 | Wholesale Hyundai Parts, Lakeland FL Only a couple bucks more for OEM.

Something else to file away for the future... Though I have little experience with Dorman, Eric, on the 'South Main Auto' Youtube channel (IMO the best general Youtube auto repair channel) despises Dorman.

Yes, I was aware of this. The OEM part is what broke, so I figured the Dorman couldn't be much worse. If I had to replace the harness cable in addition to the actuator, I'd definitely go with the OEM part as the harness on the Dorman is too short.

Thx for posting the OEM part as I hadn't considered the harness cable itself. I was a little heated over the whole thing - its laughable that this would happen on a premium vehicle - so I opted for the part that I knew would arrive quickly.

Last edited: Mar 10, 2019

: 248

: 146

: 43

Genesis Model Type: 2G Genesis Sedan (2015-2016)

You got that right. I'm quite surprised at the amount of failed parts this car has had. A big thanks to forum members for letting us know.

Looking to update and upgrade your Genesis luxury sport automobile? Look no further than right here in our own forum store - where orders are shipped immediately!

: 875

: 239

: 43

: Vancouver WA

Genesis Model Type: Genesis G80 Sport

Yet another good reason to fill up no later than down to a quarter tank remaining. Of course, that won't help if you were out in the desert and didn't have enough to get to a repair station.

Thread author
#8

: 28

: 26

: 3

: Maryland

Genesis Model Type: 2G Genesis Sedan (2015-2016)

Yet another good reason to fill up no later than down to a quarter tank remaining. Of course, that won't help if you were out in the desert and didn't have enough to get to a repair station.

Agree - I was between a quarter and half a tank when I stopped to fill up and discovered the problem. Didn't have the tools to get the door open without trashing the fuel door and the area around it. Trip computer said I'd get home with 25 miles to spare, so I went for it. Computer was spot on!

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: 875

: 239

: 43

: Vancouver WA

Genesis Model Type: Genesis G80 Sport

Trip computer said I'd get home with 25 miles to spare, so I went for it. Computer was spot on!

I've been on a few of these "nail biters" with my previous Acura RDX. Figuring out how much fuel in that vehicle was left with zero miles to go, I came up with about a gallon. If I remember correctly, when the countdown to zero reach 50 miles, the countdown figure was replaced by a low fuel warning. Since I was getting around 25 MPG, if I went to zero on the odometer, that would mean 2 more gallons gone. So, filling up the tank, and doing some basic math, that how I came up with a gallon to go at zero.

Never had enough guts to go down to zero, but one time I got down to 10 miles to go and that's when it appeared that there was a gallon left at zero. I was on I-90 at the time in an area with no gas stations or I wouldn't have pressed it up, but I was sweating it out. Don't think I'm ever going to try that again, but I am going to try to figure out how much fuel is left on my G80 say at 50 miles to go. Nice info to have if I ever get out on the limb again.

G-414630

Thank you for this post. I just had the same problem and your steps were very easy to follow and saved me a couple of bucks (probably more like $200). Really wasn't that difficult.

: 83

: 32

: 18

: BC, Canada

Genesis Model Type: 2G Genesis Sedan (2015-2016)

just to add to this, I closed the fuel door too hard today and broke the tip of the actuator pin off. Had to drive home with my fuel door half open as it could no longer latch. Anyway I used these tips to get at the actuator, however I did not have to pierce those four nipples for the clips I was able wiggle the whole piece out. the inner bracket pins are very soft I ruined one of them trying to get it out. Since the actuator was still working I drilled a small hole in the broke off metal center and worked a small screw in that sticks out just enough to latch and work with the actuator. Saved me $75

: 1

: 0

: 1

Genesis Model Type: 2G Genesis Sedan (2015-2016)

just to add to this, I closed the fuel door too hard today and broke the tip of the actuator pin off. Had to drive home with my fuel door half open as it could no longer latch. Anyway I used these tips to get at the actuator, however I did not have to pierce those four nipples for the clips I was able wiggle the whole piece out. the inner bracket pins are very soft I ruined one of them trying to get it out. Since the actuator was still working I drilled a small hole in the broke off metal center and worked a small screw in that sticks out just enough to latch and work with the actuator. Saved me $75

Hi LopeDogg... i have same problem What kind of drill did you use to make such small hole? Also, how long did screw stick out to make the latch catch?

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: 83

: 32

: 18

: BC, Canada

Genesis Model Type: 2G Genesis Sedan (2015-2016)

Hi LopeDogg... i have same problem What kind of drill did you use to make such small hole? Also, how long did screw stick out to make the latch catch?

Just a tiny metal bit 3/32 I think, made sure it was centered as much a possible. The screw did not stick far out, used a tiny computer screw with a bit longer head. Have to make sure the lip of the screw doesn't catch the lip of the door latch. I will try to take a picture of it for you.

: 83

: 32

: 18

: BC, Canada

Genesis Model Type: 2G Genesis Sedan (2015-2016)

Actually it was a 1/16th bit. pictures attached of how it is now has held over a month with opening and closing a few times. only got it screwed in about 1/4 of an inch but its pretty sturdy. I close the fuel door carefully now lol

Attachments

: 295

: 11

: 18

: North NJ

Genesis Model Type: 2G Genesis Sedan (2015-2016)

Thanks! My stupid actuator just stopped working too

Luckily in town so had enough gas to get home and pry it open. What good is the manual release if it's NOT connected directly to the pin????

: 295

: 11

: 18

: North NJ

Genesis Model Type: 2G Genesis Sedan (2015-2016)

Follow up: directions are spot on, thanks! Fixed mine a couple weeks ago. I just cut holes into the fuel filler housing to get access to the 10mm bolts since it's been pretty cold here in the NJ and my garage is currently too full to work in :rolleyes:

Ordered a new housing from eBay for $25, so will replace that in a few weeks when it warms up.

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: 0

: 1

Genesis Model Year: 2015

Genesis Model Type: 2G Genesis Sedan (2015-2016)

Actually it was a 1/16th bit. pictures attached of how it is now has held over a month with opening and closing a few times. only got it screwed in about 1/4 of an inch but its pretty sturdy. I close the fuel door carefully now lol

: 2

: 0

: 1

Genesis Model Year: 2015

Genesis Model Type: 2G Genesis Sedan (2015-2016)

The same thing happened to me the other day. I want to fix it but it's complicated. I went to Hyundai and they quoted me $200 for the part plus labor.

: 83

: 32

: 18

: BC, Canada

Genesis Model Type: 2G Genesis Sedan (2015-2016)

update on my fuel door, it lasted about a year and was finally replaced due to my recent car accident. not i have to watch that plastic again lol

: 1

: 0

: 1

Genesis Model Year: 2015

The same thing happened to me the other day. I want to fix it but it's complicated. I went to Hyundai and they quoted me $200 for the part plus labor.

you got off easy. dealer in Fairfax, Va quoted me $650.....400 for labor